Hpo Win Taung

       Hpo Win Taung is located on the west bank of the Chindwin River, the main tributary of the Ayeyarwady. It is 16 miles from Monywa and 12 miles from Sarlingyi. You have to cross the Chindwin by Z-craft from Monywa to reach Hpo Win Taung. You first arrive at the Nyaungpingyi jetty where you will find many vehicles waiting to take you to various destinations. Taking your own vehicle to drive to Hpo Win Taung means ferrying your car across on the Z, and that may mean a lot of waiting and delays. Whereas, just renting one of the waiting vehicles there is a lot more convenient. A Sunny pick-up or a jeep can be hired for Kyats 1500-2000. From Nyaungpingyi jetty, you just take the road to Yinmarpin town, and turn off at milepost number 12 for about three miles and four furlongs and you are at Hpo Win Taung.

       As you drive through the west bank of the Chindwin, you pass through miles and miles of toddy palm plantations. You could if you are so inclined even stop to sample some freshly collected (fermented?) toddy palm juice. You could also buy a leg of rabbit. The whole vista is green with trees of toddy, kokko, htanaung and tamar(neem). On either side of the road are green fields of seasonal crops. You will also come across many hillocks, and of the thirty-three hills and hillocks situated there, HpoWin Taung is one. The local people have more than one name for each hill, and Hpo Win Taung itself is known by various names such as Bo Win Taung , Bo Waing Taung etc. They say that Hpo Win Taung looks like a boat turned upside down. Some say that it looks like a reclining Buddha.

       There are many religious edifices in Hpo Win Taung. The majority of these are khanda khuti caves (meaning abodes for the Buddha) carved out of the hills, and on the rock walls of these caves are hewn many images of the Buddha. According to researcher U Myo Naing, there are 492 caves, and 2588 Buddha images in Hpo Win Taung and 46 caves and 201 Buddha images in Shwe Ba Taung. There are also 58 caves hewn out of the rock wall that are used as living quarters for lay people.

       Hpo Win Taung holds its festival on the tenth waxing day of Tazaungmon, and the long lines of bullock carts that bring celebrants to the festivities have to be seen to be believed. Most of the festivalgoers are from neighboring villages around Sarlingyi, and they have all traveled by bullock carts. Many see this festival as an occasion to show off their clothes, their style or their wealth. They would wear fancy clothes, and display all their jewelry. They would dress up their bullocks with fancy trappings. And interestingly, they would even bring a metal suitcase, made specially to fit into the front of the cart, and packed with all the household goods they think would impress others of their wealth and living standard! Once they get to the festival site, they would choose a shady spot under a big tree, and camp down for the duration of the festival. Young girls all decked out would sit on the carpets and vie with each other for the admiration of passers-by. Audiocassettes would be blaring in competition with each group, while the people cooked and entertained. Even sanghas are invited to partake of "soon", each group trying to outdo the other in terms of lavishness of their "ahlu". One aspect, which is unusual to this festival, is that beef is not permitted to be brought to the site. The origins of this custom is not known, but it could have started during the days when Ledi Sayadaw's teachings were so influential, and he had implored the people to spare the meat of the cows and bullocks that were so essential for the livelihood of the rural folks.

      The timing of the festival is such that the villagers having finished the toil of planting the lentil crop are also celebrating the harvest of the monsoon crop. They have cash in their hands and they are enjoying a break so what better time to come and celebrate this festival at Hpo Win Taung. Some people who are musically inclined would form "dobat" troupes and go around performing at all the cart encampments. Some troupes would bring the loudspeaker, the sound box, and battery all slung on poles that are carried over their shoulders and go round singing at the top of their voices. Such is the merriment and the simple fun that these people participate in. There were also ribald jests and rhymes flung at each other, but nowadays this custom had become rowdier and fights had erupted when certain actions have become objectionable.

      The festival also includes a fair. Stalls selling fabrics from the city and food stalls line the street. As is the custom, people buy gifts for those left at home and they would buy pickled bamboo shoots and bananas
In addition to this Tazaungmon festival, Hpo Win Taung is host to two other festivals, one on the full moon day of Thadingyut (October) and one on the full moon day of Tagu (April). Depending on the success of their crops and on how well off the villagers are, they would hire a "Zat pwe" to perform at the festivals.

      Most of the visitors to Hpo Win Taung are content to gaze with awe and admiration at the caves that have been hewn into the rock face of the mountain. In fact, Hpo Win Taung is a repository of ancient Buddha images of various styles and "mudras", and beautiful ancient wall paintings. Here, an enthusiast would be able to study Buddha images in styles that represent different periods of history. For example, the Nay-yapan image has been studied and analyzed as the earliest Nay-yapan image to be dated.

      Not only the images but also the wall paintings are worth studying. Wall paintings can be found on many of the rock walls of the caves and they are mostly of stories from the Jattaka. It is interesting to see that Portuguese have been depicted as creatures from hell, and in the scene where Prince Theikdahta left the palace in renunciation of all worldly pursuits, a Portuguese has again been depicted as the Mara Nat. It should be mentioned that the paintings are not just found scattered around the place. They are on every wall and ceiling of the caves, and they have been added on through the ages. They depict mythical birds and ogres as well as more commonly seen animals such as monkeys and tigers, elephants and horses etc.

      There are stone carvings as well, which would attract your attention. The statue of the baldheaded ogress on Nwatho Taung is carved out of limestone. The ogress has one leg folded beneath her and one leg hanging down. She is lifting both of her breasts in her hands, and there are holes in the nipples from where water flows out. The back of the ogress is connected to a little pond that collects rainwater from the hill side. When it rains the pond fills up and water comes out of the ogress' nipples in a continuous stream.
The effect is that of the ogress pumping out milk from her breasts.

      Hpo Win Taung can be considered an archaeological heritage that has not been fully discovered by the public. Even as far back as 1912, JP Harcliman, ICS, who was the Deputy Commissioner, Settlement Officer had reported in his Burma Gazetteer ( Lower Chindwin District) that Hpo Win Taing should be placed under preservation measures because of its architecturally historic value and ancient art value. At the moment, it is learnt that the Archaeological department has plans to maintain and preserve the site. But until recently, there has been damage to the site from rainwater that has flooded the caves, and damage to the wall paintings from the moisture. In addition there had been losses suffered at the hands of thieves who had robbed the antiquities. Although, the pagoda trustees had done their best, they are unable to cope with the magnitude of the necessary maintenance and preservation measures.

      The roads leading to Hpo Win Taung are all weather tar roads, and therefore convenient for visitors to the area. The main obstacle at the moment is the Z crossing across the Chindwin from Monywa to Nyaungpingyi. A bridge across the Chindwin seems imperative at this point, and I believe that sooner or later it will be built. Once that happens not only Hpo Win Taung, but the whole expanse of the west bank of the Chindwin would become increasingly developed.

      Whether it be to admire the scenic beauty of the forests and mountains and green fields in the area, or whether it be to marvel at the ancient heritage of Buddha images and wall paintings and architectural highlights, or whether it be to study the social fabric of the inhabitants of the surrounding villages and highland areas, Hpo Win Taung is undoubtedly a place worth visiting.